Jenin

Though Nablus is in the middle of no where Jenin feels even more so. Arriving at the bus station after 45minutes of continual near death experiences was a relief but also like you would expect a typical arab town to be like- dirty, smelly, lots of market traders, lots of noise and colour. This clearly being no tourist destination. Despite or more likely because of this I spent an amazing 24hrs there. Pictures are posted at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=24848&l=8b8a3&id=801579690

I had wanted to go to Jenin because I had heard the name so many times before. The camp was obliterated in 2002 and the inhabitants have been trying to repair this damage ever since. The town is very close to the border with Israel making it very easy to attack. There isn't much to see in terms of attractions and though it is quieter now it is still better to visit the camp with a guide. Luckily we spent Thursday night and Friday with a local family. I honestly don't believe I have ever encountered nicer people. From entertaining us the whole time, to driving us round, to feeding us, to answering or questions- nothing was too much trouble. I can't say that I would be as welcoming to a group of people that had descended on my home.

The house itself was a wonderful setting. Though just around the corner from the town centre it could have been anywhere. The terrace was so peaceful and the perfect place to sit and talk. Of course about politics and the occupation but other things as well. Such as if you could have a third eye where would you have it? I decided on the back of my hand, less trouble than the front of the hand whilst still retaining the same amount of usefulness....

The children of the household were incredibly articulate (in English as well as Arabic) and frighteningly capable and intelligent. If they can develop into such great beings with high aspirations why do we have such poverty of ambition in the UK? These children have witnessed (and still witness) truly horrible things yet they remain very together and positive.

The main reason we were in Jenin was to see the Freedom theatre and Street Circus. Islam Gabi who runs the circus looked after us during our time in Jenin along with his brother. The night before we visited the theatre we stayed in the Arab-American (or American-Arab) School that the children mentioned above attend. Another one of those very strange things that I can say I have done- slept on the floor of a private school in Jenin because the men and women couldn't be in the same house and the men had to go somewhere else, and the school is closed for the holidays....

The theatre itself is another anomaly, as if it really shouldn't be there. You walk around a corner, move off the scruffy main street and there is a beautiful building with children playing happily outside and a proper theatre inside. The anomaly today was circus skills workshops for children with no children. After a performance a few weeks ago many of the residents were unhappy with the way their children (female) had been dancing so have boycotted the theatre ever since. I hope this changes as Islam and the other workers there clearly do a fantastic job based upon the DVD's we watched.
http://www.thefreedomtheatre.org/

There seems to have been a continual state of animosity between some of the camp residents and the theatre. I did find this hard to comprehend as the theatre seems to be precisely what the young people need, especially the girls who aren't allowed to play out in the street like the boys are. The theatre gives space for play, for an outlet of emotion as well as spiritual and moral development (OFSTED would be pleased with my terminology).

The workers weren't too disheartened and decided to show us some of the activities they do with the young people. This was the best fun I've had in ages. From a game of dodgeball to making car noises without opening your lips (it has to be demonstrated it doesn't translate well into words) to games requiring chanting and clapping in time. It was good to see people who barely knew one another from all over the world getting along so well. My only worry with visiting places such as Jenin and the other towns I will got to is that I now have a real connection to the place. When I hear 'Jenin' on the news it won't just be some town in the West Bank it will be the people I've met, the school I visited, the freedom theatre that I will be thinking of.